Infinite Bliss, Mt Garfield, WA. [5.10c 23p]
love the lower pitches; glacial polished slab that reminded me nothing of squamish friction.. the slabs were surprisingly dry given that it had rained all week long having only cleared up the day before… we meandered past the waterfall pitch, but decided to keep on trying to see how far we could get. the ONE bolt gully was disturbingly wet as my ankles were covered in running water, and the 10b pitch whose critical holds were wet as well didn’t stop us from packing on the chalk to dry up the holds… the rest of the climb was rather dry up until the 10a chimney at the top, where every hold was wet, and i aided each bolt., the summit pitches were dry, the top out fine.
comments: errr… the lower pitches have a unique character and the upper pitches are phenomenal. One of my favorite 10c’s given its sustained nature and exposed position. I must comment that I am not a fan of those runout 15 and 16th pitches… For the most part I think the climb is well-bolted, but given that it was rap-bolted and not a ground up ascent, why didn’t the bolter stick in a few on run out choss… anyone can climb runout 5.0 choss but choss won’t be friendly to all who pass by…. i think its a safety issue and not a psychological crux.. even bachar yerian is better bolted than this.