mountain therapy….. for the most part.

“Shake Your Lettuce” Liberated! (Sully’s, B.C.)


To everyone else Sully’s is a crowded crag that takes forever to dry, guarded by a 20 minute approach that is about 19 minutes more than anyone at Squamish is used to.  The mosquitos are reminiscent of Alaska and Pale Cascadians need no more shade than they already do, and Sully’s has plenty of it.  To me, it’s my favorite crag.  It always has been, as much as I pull on limestone in spain or granite in josh, Sully’s is home.  Amidst the old growth forests that give the crag its hidden nature is a friendly bolted temple of ancient granite.  I’ve never completed all the climbs at any crag, except for Sully’s, and having onsighted the majority helps to give it a very familiar feeling.  More than anything, it caters to my style, crimps and footwork interspersed by a few powerful moves here and there.  I could climb each route time and time again and easily be entertained.

Shake Your Lettuce is a beautiful 10d dihedral that I’ve always wondered if it could go free or boltless. When I finally plugged in some gear; I found out it would go.  The feeling of placing of precise gear placements and moving beyond gear that was semi-marginal and ignoring the relative safety of expansion bolts liberated my mind and focused my climbing.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable feeling to climb without the constraints of another’s work.  No wonder the recent rise of  a new school of climbing that sends previously bolted routes on gear because it is pure. My feat of freeing the line, like the crag itself, gains no notoriety among climbing circles, but my favorite crag has once again produced what I always loved about it: affectionate memories in a dingy, mossy paradise called home.

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