South Nesakwatch Spire – Dairyland – BC. [5.11a] 7398′
UMmmm okay… That last crack makes the first crack on Juno’s clean break look like Choss!
Just went to the most beautiful place on earth next to the bugaboos & next to yosemite. Dare I compare?
again let me do this in hastily written bullet point style, since i want the time between information dissemination and people climbing in this joint to be as short as possible.
1) Views of Slesse/Baker/Shuksan and surrounding cascades were immensely mind boggling
2) Climbed the most beautiful crack I have ever set my eyes and paws on. Potentially a 65/70 meter splitter crack if followed in its entirety, starting with hands and ending in fingers. I split off where the hands end before the fingers start as i chose the early exit since i personally would’ve needed a quadruple rack haha. So has anyone done the finger crack exit? ( I might actually recheck this post to find out!! )
3) Okee Dokee. Gotta say, i’ve never done a route with So little beta. I.e. I looked at the face and followed a line. Mark Leclerc gave me the recommendation and when I read his trip report combined with Becky’s book, which called it the best line on the face [end of his beta], and I thought, “I think it is calling me.”
TOTALLY got lost in the mid part of the climb, ended up aiding up some c1+ foolery, got back on route whilst my trepidation subsiding, (YES, TREPIDATION) and finally saw perfect finger cracks line me up to the summit like a 747 at O’hare. When that particular finger crack deposited me at the most beautiful crack i’ve ever seen… well….. i took a picture.
4) Point FOUR. Apparently there is ethic of not revealing so much about the climbs here. Well, I for one am abstaining from that particular ethic, to a certain degree anyways. Why? Because such great climbing, and what i consider to be the most beautiful place on earth should be shared. Why? Because there are so many great climbs AND potential great climbs to be had, but I needed to nut tool out many of the crud for gear placements and i was hoping if you come ( yes you ) then it will turn into an alpine squamish. Lastly i solidified my stance when upon the descent, we met a prolific climber who mentioned that there was quite a ‘upturned nose’ attitude among some more better climbers to ward off the less seasoned, and that he agrees the whole area should see more traffic. Well i figure, I’m not going to post beta per say, but how about now some photos to complement marc’s trip report!! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=902482
Hopefully that’ll whet your appetite, and you know what? we were the only ones there for basically the entire weekend.. Hummm……….By the way if someone doesn’t want beta, i guess they could just not search online for it.. I GUESS.